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Whenever curating a ranking of London’s finest dining spots, one might foresee renowned award-winning names. Yet, situated prominently among these gastronomic giants is a unpretentious salonu located in a outlying part of northern London.

A Surprise Honour

This little Turkish eatery, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the 4th top restaurant in the capital by a respected food magazine. The honour has left the proprietors utterly shocked.

“I’m utterly shocked,” states the proprietor, alluding to his family’s hard graft that culminated in their modest shop securing such a prominent position on a respected 99-strong list.

A Character of Modesty

This small shop, which was a simple cafe before its transformation into a sought-after destination, has retained much of its earlier charm. It seats just over 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking show, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate place,” notes the owner.

The Namesake Offering: Tantuni

However, it’s all down to the fare, and this restaurant certainly succeeds. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a moist, juicy texture.

It is then added into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. As the meaty mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to soak in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the savoury meat is rolled neatly inside.

It is usually enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a strong burst of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil tying it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The leading food critic called this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the restaurant’s künefe proves a treat. It is doused in lighter syrup than is typical, imparting it a more intense, more aromatic and less sickly taste.

Rising Above the Titans

Interestingly, this unassuming spot has ranked above several renowned three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself near the summit of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant full for less than £25, similar tasting menus at top-tier establishments can run into significantly more than that amount.

A Creed of Hospitality

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is found well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an costly city. There is an belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I don’t agree with that,” states the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is hospitality, kindness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The philosophy is echoed by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he were in a position of power, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London come to this spot as a finishing school, to show them the dangers of excess, and to reveal what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Story of Hard Work

Unlike many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food did not apprentice at elite restaurants. “I feel really happy of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants take years to become successful, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum was very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a personal life but her friends would come here to encourage her. She had children and a house to look after as well. Each of these duties made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

A Recognition for the Culture

This restaurant’s recognition is bound to have meaning beyond its own premises. “I believe numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the greater significance of this gastronomic triumph.