🔗 Share this article Kimchi, Made in China: How Korea's Iconic Food Is Being Priced Out at Home. The distinct scent of red chilli powder fills the air at a production facility in Incheon. Inside, brined napa cabbage rests in sizeable industrial containers during the initial stage of a time-honored process. "Kimchi has become a global dish originating in Korea, but this is illogical," notes a factory owner. "Our domestic market has been taken away from us." The difficulty is due to a widening import-export gap. The country brings in a greater volume of kimchi than it exports, with lower-cost Chinese-made products dominating in the domestic market. A Costly Difference Kimchi from China sells to restaurants at around 1,700 won per kilogram. In contrast, Korean-made versions average about 3,600 won per kilogram—more than double the price. In the first ten months of the year, the value of imports stood at $159 million, almost entirely from China, while exports amounted to $137 million. More Than Just Cabbage Kimchi is a staple of culinary tradition on the Korean peninsula. The term covers far more than the spicy cabbage most familiar to global audiences. There are over 150 known varieties, made with radish, cucumber, spring onions and other vegetables. They are seasoned with mixtures of pepper flakes, garlic, ginger and jeotgal. The fermentation process produces health-promoting lactic acid bacteria, contributing to its status as a health food. Changing Consumption Traditionally, families prepared large quantities together during kimjang, a practice designated by UNESCO. Yet, how Koreans consume kimchi are changing. One-person homes have more than tripled since 2000, now representing over 36% of all households. Consequently, a declining number make kimchi at home. Instead, it is more often eaten pre-packaged or while eating out, where it is provided complimentary with every meal. Charging for such a staple would be unthinkable. The Producer's Plight "If you avoid losses and don’t go bankrupt, that’s already fortunate," says one manufacturer. "In our industry over the past decade, we haven’t been able to invest in equipment." An Emotional Staple Economic realities mean that price, rather than origin or method, is now the primary consideration. One factory owner who has operated a facility for 29 years canceled plans for expansion years ago as Chinese imports became popular. "Is it right to use imported kimchi when this is a food that embodies our heritage?" he says. "It's deeply saddening." Compounding Pressures The pressures are worsened by the climate crisis, which is affecting napa cabbage agriculture. Summer cultivation has become harder in usual mountainous regions, causing wholesale cabbage prices to sharply increase from one year to the next. Authorities and producers are developing hardier cabbage types and improved storage systems, but trade associations question whether such measures can offset the pressures. Around three-quarters of South Korea’s kimchi manufacturers are micro-businesses with a handful of employees, using handcrafted techniques that find it hard to compete with industrial-scale production in China. Finding a Way Forward The sector is attempting to adapt, though with few options. A subsidy program offers restaurants a financial incentive to return to using domestically produced kimchi. There are petitions for increased scrutiny of declared import prices for kimchi. Government measures include origin labeling programs for restaurants, agricultural support for cabbage growers, and studies to lengthen kimchi’s shelf life for export. The Final Defense Ultimately, many believe that superior quality remains South Korea’s strongest defence. "Our kimchi has a distinct flavor," says an expert. "That cannot be replicated."